nice car!
for three years,i owned a 1958 VW beetle with 6 V electric.there wasn´t any problem all the time.but i changed all bulbs,made all electric contacts like new and put some extra ground wires.
and in worked fine.you even could stay on the break with lights on and the turn signal had a normal frequence.
an important thing is the current at idle.
does the generator produce over 6,5 V when the lights are turned on and the warm engine is idling?
greets.
Hallo aus Frankreich !
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Hello !
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Salut!Au froid, il ne faut pas appuyer l'accelerateur tout le temps! Tu dois le bouger doucement 2 fois, et démarrer ne l'appuyant plus.
D'ordinaire, il faudra régler l'allumage, le carburateur, et les valves. Une fois ç'est tout fait, elle démarrera parfaitement
Merci beaucoup du conseil, je le ferais dorénavant. ;)
Je rajoute à ma liste le réglage de l'allumage, carburateur et des valves.
encore merci.
Not really.
Basically, you need an alternator, a starter motor, a battery, and a number of light bulbs. If you wish, replace also the wiper motor and heater fan, but that is not really necessary. A friend of mine left the original 6V starter motor in when he converted to 12V. He used to have great starter RPM, and it lasted for years :thumbup:Only this parts ?
I thought he had more parts to change.
does the generator produce over 6,5 V when the lights are turned on and the warm engine is idling?Thank for your answers.
Tomorrow, i look for the voltage of generator.Have a nice day.
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Hi,
very nice hardtop-coupe. i do not see a reason to change it to 12V. a well maintained 6v-equipment works almost as well. first, do everything like "kardankarl" described. that is clean all bulb sockets, all contact plugs, especially the fuse sockets and the ground cables. then get a good battery with at least +70 Ah.
of course the 6v system is more sensitive to unwanted cable/plug resistances, it will work if everything is kept clean and in good condition. (i have a '57 ford 17M P2 and a '64 17M P3, and both are running fine with the original 6v-equipment. i changed the indicator relay (which works with a heated wire and a bi-metal strip) to a modern ic-one (look for "m-flash" on google) which results in brighter indicator light due to a longer "power-on" phase. and i installed a transistorized ignition box which still uses the original ignition distributor and the breaker contacts, but the high amp current is no longer going via the breaker contacts, it is siwtched by the transistor box. that results in lower voltage drop for the iginition coil and almost no wear on the breaker points. google for "helotronik" or something similar.
both these mods are easy to reverse to original equipment if desired.for the horn switch; remove the inner steering wheel horn ring by pressing down and turning about 1/4 counterclockwise. look for any contacts in the center of the steering wheel; the wire for the horn should be seen, it is going straight through the core of the steering pipe and you should see it getting out of that pipe when looking in the engine compartment for the steering gearbox. (i do not know exactly but this is the way on the P3 - should be similar on the P5)
regards
nick -
