Zndzeitpunkt

Hallo
Wer kann mir sagen welchen Zndzeitpunkt ich einstellen mu?
Problem bei mir gibt es keine Skala sondern nur eine Markierung (Finger ).
Auf der Riemenscheibe war auchnur eine ganz leichte Markierung zu finden. Ich hoffe, dass diese die richtige ist ....wer kann helfen

Hallo,

schliee mich Moritz an. Je mehr Informationen, umso besser. Jetzt nur ein Beispiel:

moritz: Die Granada V6 hatten bis '74 oder gar '75 eine Verdichtung von 9:1 und bekamen 6 vor O.T.
Spter wurde die Verdichtung auf 8.75:1 herabgesetzt und der Zndzeitpunkt auf 9 vor O.T. gestellt.

Also alles gar nicht sooo einfach. Aber mit den entsprechenden Daten kann man (fast) alles nachschauen :]

Gre, Denis

P.S.: Aufgrund dem "Finger" tippe ich auf einen OHC Motor...

Hallo
Also es ist ein 1,6 ohc mit 72 PS wrde gerne Super Bleifrei fahren vertrgt der das berhaubt.
Eine Skala habe ich nicht nur einen einzelnen Finger!
danke

Ich schaue zuhause mal nach.

Das Problem ist, da die Kurbelwellenriemenscheibe mehrere Nuten nebeneinander hat; und diese noch in verschiedenen Tiefen.
Da braucht man eine ganz genaue Beschreibung, wie man die zu deuten hat.
Evtl. steht das auch im Werkstatthandbuch drin, die werden ja auch schon online zur Verfgung gestellt.

Mut mal stbern...

Zitat

Original von Michael - member05 -
Um Soul Voice mal zu korrigieren:
Der 68PS-Motor luft mit normal-Benzin, der 72 PS-Motor braucht super. 95 Oktan reichen aber.
Die Blei-Ersatz-Diskussion lassen wir dabei mal aussen vor da eh jeder eine eigene Meinung dazu hat.

Der OHC hat auf der Riemenscheibe der Kurbelwelle vier Einkerbungen (v. li. n. re.) OT, 4v. OT, 8v. OT, 12v. OT
Darber sitzt (unter dem Wasserstutzen der Wasserpumpe) ein Steg, das ist die Markierung fr die Skala.
Gemessen wird am Zylinder 1 (vorne) bei abgezogenem (und verschlossenem!) Unterdruckschlauch am Verteiler und bei Leerlaufdrehzahl.
ZZP bei Ford-Einfachvergaser: 6v. OT
ZZP bei Ford-Gleichdruckvergaser (Venturi-Vergaser) 12v. OT
ZZP bei Weber Registervergaser: 8v. OT

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Hi,

Excuse me, but I have a very little bit Deutsh. So I have to ask something in English.

I have a 1986 model Ford Taunus 1.6 GL, motor is OHC, 1593 cc, LC (motor code: LAR) with weber carbureteur(2V), electronic firing (transistor) and with original aircondition system (that's why I buy this car). I've installed LPG system on it and using on both gas and LPG.

My question is about the "zündzeitpunkt" ignition timing. I have found a workshop repair manual of Ford Taunus 1975. It shows the timing marks on the pulley. I've found them on my car, but the mark is not a one notch, crankshaft pulley has several notches next to each other, it's a group of notches one after another (in series in different depths), I didn't count them but maybe 5 or 6 notches. And there's no info about them. On the manual it's showing the same group of notches, but giving no information about them. For ignition timing with stroboskoplambe which notch will I have to take into consideration? Or how will I adjust the ignition timing? when I take the last notch from left, the ignition time shows 11, when I take the last notch from right, it shows 27 degrees. Please help me, I'll follow this forum. Also, my e-mail is [email protected]. I'll looking forward hearing from all of you.

(NOTE: I've tried to translate some posts above but as you know I couldn't understand some of them (because of the bad translation), the above post explains some, but mine is different I think and I need technical info, because this taunus seems like different from others, my technician said that it's not an Otosan/Turkey production, it's a Germany production ??)

Thanks,

Serkan :(

Zitat

Original von Tommy
Sorry, can't help you with the notches., but isn't there another ignition timing for LPG than the one in the original manual?

I know the ignition time must be retarded for LPG, but I need to know which notch for the adjustment.

anyone for help?

turn the crankshaft BY HAND until the piston in cylinder no. 1 is in the highest position (to find this position, put a screwdriver into the hole for the sparkplug, but be carefully when turning the crankshaft!)

At next take a look at your crankshaft pulley, what you will see is the 'point zero'...

greetz

Zitat

Original von Gast
turn the crankshaft BY HAND until the piston in cylinder no. 1 is in the highest position (to find this position, put a screwdriver into the hole for the sparkplug, but be carefully when turning the crankshaft!)

At next take a look at your crankshaft pulley, what you will see is the 'point zero'...

greetz

well, thank you very much, this was a good info, but will I take this point zero when adjusting the ignition time? And if I'm thinking of adjusting ignition to 10 will I read according to this zero point?

Also if I make a little mistake when finding the zero point, will my ignition time change so much?

Also, I think turning the crankshaft is not so easy, I think I have to turn the rear wheels (on the car lifter) when the gear is on fourth level. Is there any other easy way?

Zitat

Original von Michael - member05 -
Der 68PS-Motor ist ein LC (Low Compression)-Motor.
Er wurde ins Programm genommen um eben normal-Benzin fahren zu können. Dafür hat er halt auch vier/fünf PS weniger als der 'normale' 1.6er.
Zum Bleiersatz werde ich hier nichts mehr sagen. Zuviele verschiedene Meinungen ...
Ich kipp es jedes mal mit rein.

Mine is a LC motor, and to run this motor on LPG, I had modified the exhaust valve seats (with hardened seats). It costs 150 USD for me. Before this modification exhaust valves were missing compression because of LPG wear. Now it runs good, but as I told above posts, I'm in trouble with ignition timing. I have found today a small notch to the right side of the notches (in serial). Could this one be the "zero" point. If so, how would I adjust the ignition time according to this zero point with an adjustable advance timing light? What the ignition time value do I have to adjust according to the zero point? I need help please :( :(

Will no one help me? :( :(

Zitat

Original von Furby
Look at the Repairing manual >Motor page 60 pic.number118 .>>>>

Really good, is this position shows the zero point on the crankshaft pulley?

Zitat

Original von Gast
turn the crankshaft BY HAND until the piston in cylinder no. 1 is in the highest position (to find this position, put a screwdriver into the hole for the sparkplug, but be carefully when turning the crankshaft!)

At next take a look at your crankshaft pulley, what you will see is the 'point zero'...

greetz

I've done what you have told and found that my zero point is approximately the fist line to the left of the notches in serial. Is that the real zero point for Ford Taunus 1.6cc LC motor?

Zitat

Original von Furby
Thats right the zero-point is on the line of the left of the notches but the ignition point is on another point look ADJUSTING DATA - TAUNUS / CORTINA .

These are the datas for leaded and unleaded fuel i dont know what are the dates for lpg.

If you don`t have degree marks on your engine this can help you

O.T is the zero notch on the crankshaft pulley , print it and glue it on , then use a timing light hold it on the point and turn the distributor , when the notches are in line its ok.

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Yeah, thank you very much. But I didn't understand what you mean by "the ignition point is on another point". If I use adjustable timing light (not a standard timing light) couldn't I adjust the desired timing by adjusting the advance set on the timing light by taking the zero point as a reference? Or do I have to take another point as a reference for an adjustable timing light?

for example, I'll want the initial ignition timing set at 10°, so I adjust the timing light to 10 on its adjusting dial and observe the crankcase pulley "zero point" notch lines up with the split in the engine case. Am I right? Or do I have to use another method?

Today, I've adjusted my ignition timings according to the method I've mentioned and also looked for other sources of vacuum. So my static+mechanic ignition timings (for LPG) are 15° at idle (850 RPM), 18° at 2000 RPM and 23° at 3500 RPM with vacuum advance (using ported vacuum) the timings are 23° at idle, 35° at 2000 RPM and 40° 3500 RPM. During this adjustment I have used the thermal vacuum switch installed under the inlet manifold. When the engine is cold the vacuum is from manifold and when it's warm, vacuum is from ported (carbureteur) vacuum source. Because of the a/c working when the motor gets too hot, the thermal vacuum switch turns the vacuum source to manifold and this causes an increase in idle (because of the vacuum advance) to cool the motor. Or do I have to make the connections otherwise. Because I'm running on LPG I have not need much advance at high RPM's, so if I use manifold vacuum the the vacuum advance and total advance will be lower on high RPMs and higher on low RPMs. Am I right? If I use manifold vacuum for my current ignition timing I'll get 30° of total advance (incl. vacuum adv.) at idle (850 RPM)

What would you advise?

By the way, thank you for your help and informations

No advice??? :(

Are there anyone using LPG as fuel on his car?

If so, how did you tune your ignition timing?

So, no one is using LPG on his car?? ;(

Is 18 degrees of ignition advance at idle too much for a 1.6 cc LC (2V) motor of Ford Taunus running on LPG?